Since you last heard from me, I’ve leapt head-first into a number of self-drafting experiments.
The first — which was in retrospect perhaps a bit ambitious for my very first attempt — was to re-create a vintage DVF silk wrap top that I purchased from ThredUp several years ago. I absolutely love this top, but it’s a bit oversized, and therefore too revealing for everyday wear. I thought that using my new bodice block as a base for duplicating it would allow for a better fit.
The image on the left is the original, while the image on the right is my version. Most of the drafting problems can be seen in the front bust area. I’m actually thrilled with the sleeves, and I’ll be keeping that pattern for future makes. The back isn’t bad, though the length adjustment that I made to the torso meant the back darts, which I intended to sew as gathers, completely disappeared.
I started the process by studying the original, and I managed to duplicate most of the construction pretty closely. I did a bit of guessing in terms of how to shape the neckline, which is the main source of my woes. I also added about two inches below the waistline before attaching the waistband, which ended up being a strange spot on my body. I converted all the dart volume into gathers, but it’s too much, so it makes the area between my bust and waist look too voluminous.
Most of these, thankfully, should be easy fixes. I fully intended for this to be an experimental toile, not really a wearable garment. I used a mystery polyester fabric with similar drape to the original top, purchased from a local re-use store in Los Angeles as part of a fill-a-bag for $10 scheme, so all in it probably cost me less than $2 in fabric to make.
My most recent self-drafting experiment has taken the form of creating a knit block, and it’s still an ongoing process. As a larger-busted individual, with a lot of forward projection, I’ve had a lot of success with adding knit FBAs to patterns, or just using patterns designed for larger busts to begin with.
I spent a bit of time searching for a method to self-draft a knit block with these considerations in mind, but every resource I found suggested that the front and back be identical widths. I ended up using the book “Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics” by Julie Cole, thinking I’d draft the pattern to her instructions, then add an FBA like I’ve done in the past.
Well, that didn’t work. I’m not even sure the bust drafting itself was the problem, but rather the shape of the armscythe. Even the neck opening was too small, so I’m guessing this was a result of user error and not a problem with the instructions. I drafted from my own measurements, when perhaps I should have started with a standard size, as I did with my woven block drafts.
As a palette cleanser, I printed out the Cashmerette Concord Tee in my usual size — 2 F/G — and sewed it together in order to compare. Here’s the two side-by-side:
Clearly a huge difference. One thing I noticed and love about Cashmerette’s knit drafting for larger cup sizes is the “boob bubble” — as you can see on the pattern piece below, the extra room for the FBA is added in a curve below the underarm, allowing the armscythe to remain unaffected.
My next steps for my personal knit block will be to apply something similar. I may even use the Cashmerette pattern as a basis for the front bodice block, and adjust as needed for fit. The sleeves need a bit of adjusting (they’re a little too tight), I’d prefer the neckline to be smaller, and the waistline needs to be lowered. But this seems like a much closer starting point!
That’s it for this week. What have you all been working on? Drop me a comment and let me know!